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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.